From my own injury recovery experience, I gradually realize how important it is to warm up. There are many great resources online, so I decide to gather them down here for reference.

PIP Joint

    • high-rate rotational loading is more stressful on the fingers than static loading
    • when you can get your middle and distal bones around the edge of the jug, in that context, most of the stress in the fingers goes into the PIP joint.
    • The PIP Joint can suffer from overdoing easy climbing.
    • A high volume of easy training can be counterproductive.
    • PIP swelling are due to
      • Collateral ligaments (sides of the joint)
      • A3 pulleys (hold the tendon close to the joint)
      • Volar plate (ligament across the joint where A3 attaches)
    • dosage of stress stype is more important than intensity of the load.
    • Treatment:
      • Avoid the high-rate rotational loading for a few weeks to months.
      • Don’t spend weeks to months climbing easy terrain. Especially in a gym.
      • Keep loading your fingers in an easily trackable way (ladder style). Fingerboard, campus board (feet on), spray wall etc.
      • Be patient as hell in rehab! That’s the not easy part.
    • PIP joint accounts for 85% of the motion for grip strength
    • a hinge type joint which is stable only in the sagittal plane (flexing and extending)
    • Three grades of collateral ligament injuries
    • General recommendations:
      • Stiffness and joint contraction are common with injury.
      • There is no consensus on best treatment strategies!
      • Most injuries rarely return to full active range of motion.
      • Treatment within 4 weeks is key.
      • Immobilization beyond 3 weeks causes irreversible loss of motion!
      • Early diagnosis and motion are suggested (specifically extensor power).
    • Doing something like finger-glides on a regular basis is not necessarily “healthy” for the joints of your fingers.
    • It really comes down to understanding the why behind any intervention. Everything comes with a cost.

TFCC injury

    • Components:
      • A triangular shaped fibro-cartilaginous disc (shock absorbing, guiding motion)
      • Ligaments between the ulna and radius on both sides (palmar & dorsal)
      • Ligaments between the ulna and the carpal bones
      • A meniscal type homologoue (shock absorbing)
      • Sub-sheath of the ECU tendon
    • Cause: repetitive axial loads to the wrist when the hand is in ulnar deviation and pronation.
    • the dosage of the stress is the culprit
    • Even though it is still recommended to do conservative management first, the statistics show that only 1/3 of patients get symptomatic relief. That number is highly dependent on the compliance but does show how tricky these injuries can be.
  • UIS Ulnar Impaction Syndrome
    1. 5:3 x 3 repeater
    2. 30s yielding isotonic
    3. 5s overcoming isotonic
    4. 5 rep isotonic
    5. velocity isotonic
    6. 1-arm 90-degree PIMA with ulnar deviation
    7. 1-arm 120-degree PIMA with ulnar deviation
    8. 1-arm weighted hammer / band PIMA
    9. concentric focused ulnar deviation with hammer/band
    10. rapid concentric ulnar deviation with hammer/band
      • Building capacity in this part of the wrist is essential for staying injury free.
    • Alternative
      • Keeping the wrist neutral will do the same thing (mechanically), and it feels way less risky (good for pain reduction), especially if you’re an athlete with clicking in the wrist.
      • Wrist flexion isometric (shown on the left). Go heavy and hold for a longer time under tension.
      • Wrist extension isometric (opposite side of the forearm). Same idea.
      • Hammer curl isometric. Curl a heavy dumbbell to 90-degrees at the elbow (thumb up) and hold for time.
      • Tricep extension isometric. Opposite direction. Lower a heavy band or cable machine to 90-degrees (thumb up) and hold for time.
    • Eccentric flexion over a bench is not a very practical exercise.
    • With pain at the wrist, keeping it neutral is a safe and reliable method.
    • This controlled load needs to change as your rehab progresses.

A2 Pulley Injury



    • reducing stress to prevent an injury doesn’t make sense
    • taping should be part of progressive rehab plan, not a method to prevent one.


- Pros
	- provide structural support and reduce pulley stress
		- H-tape is good for A2, A3 and A4. but **not collateral ligament and volar plate injuries**
	- provide proprioception (awareness) in the joint
	- Modify PIP joint range of motion: make it harder to do full-crimp
	- Reduce pain: feels safe and reduces stress and anxiety.
- Cons
	- not preventative. Listen to the body and back off the volume if it sore
	- leads to further overuse.
	- modifying ROM for too long can reduce it long-term

General Rehab

    • consistency for rehab
    • Standardizing warm up - Injury prevention program (IPP): C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6
      • a new outcome prediction
    • Rehab loading methods
      • then: 30mm for A2, A3 pulleys.
    • Absence of pain does not equal health.
    • Persistence of pain does not mean it’s not healing.
    • Connective responds slowly, so you have to be patient. ASIDE FROM LOADING AND RECOVERING THERE IS NO METHOD TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN FASTER!
    • Not loading at all (under loading) often times is more stressful for athletes. There are always things you can do!
    • Get help from a professional.
    • There are fewer rules with finger training than you likely think. Using a bigger edge to make your fingers stronger is totally acceptable.